African fat-tail geckos (Hemitheconyx caudicinctus) are relatively small (7-8 inches) lizards that are native to western Africa. They are closely related to the leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius), and you can see the similarity. Their bodies are similar sizes, although fat-tails are a bit smaller, as well as shapes. Fat-tails are a bit darker in coloration to leopard geckos, and there haven't been quite as few morphs bred. They are also a bit more skittish than leopard geckos, and require a higher humidity level. They are not as readily available as captive bred specimens, and wild-caught ones are often heavily parisitized. Personally, I think leopard geckos are better pets, but if a fat-tail sounds like a good pet to you, they make a close second.
Physical description: fat-tail geckos are usually a relatively small 7-8 inches long. They are generally a light-ish brown lizard with black or dark browm splotches, but that is just the color they have in the wild. In captivity they have been bred selectively for certain traits, although there aren't as many as the leopard gecko. However, the ones that are available are quite stunning.
Housing: fat-tail geckos do not require a large space to be happy. A standard ten-gallon tank with a screen lid will house a single gecko from hatchling to adult, however a larger tank (15- or 20-gallon) is recommended to allow the gecko more space to move around. Here are a few options:
Physical description: fat-tail geckos are usually a relatively small 7-8 inches long. They are generally a light-ish brown lizard with black or dark browm splotches, but that is just the color they have in the wild. In captivity they have been bred selectively for certain traits, although there aren't as many as the leopard gecko. However, the ones that are available are quite stunning.
Housing: fat-tail geckos do not require a large space to be happy. A standard ten-gallon tank with a screen lid will house a single gecko from hatchling to adult, however a larger tank (15- or 20-gallon) is recommended to allow the gecko more space to move around. Here are a few options:
Substrate: Most experts reccomend that you keep your fat-tail geckos on paper towels. They are very convenient, as well as safe and inexpensive. Any paper towels will do, but here are some:
As always, be sure to do thorough research on whatever substrate to be sure that it's safe. Here are a few substrates that have been proven to be unsafe for reptiles, either because they are prone to causing impaction or because it can be toxic for reptiles:
Calcium sand (impaction)
Ground corncob (impaction)
Crushed walnut shells (impaction)
Pine shavings (toxic)
Heating: A UTH (under tank heater) on a thermostat (such as the ones below) is the best way to heat a geckos tank (be sure to get the correct size. For more info on that, see below the UTH and thermostat):
Calcium sand (impaction)
Ground corncob (impaction)
Crushed walnut shells (impaction)
Pine shavings (toxic)
Heating: A UTH (under tank heater) on a thermostat (such as the ones below) is the best way to heat a geckos tank (be sure to get the correct size. For more info on that, see below the UTH and thermostat):
The heater should cover no more than half of the bottom of the tank. This is to allow your lizard to thermoregulate properly. The temperature on the warm end of the tank during the day should be about 87-90 degrees, and the temperature on the cool end can fall to room temperature. Please note that since the temperature probe for the thermostat will be underneath the substrate, you will need to set the temperature on the thermostat for higher than you need above the substrate. With both of my leopard geckos' enclosures (they need the same temperature) I have needed to set the thermostat for 105 degrees underneath the carpet to get the correct temp on top of the carpet. Check the temp with a digital thermometer or an infrared temp gun such as these (I would reccomend the temp gun):
Do not get temperature strips or analog thermometers; both are inaccurate. Put the thermostat on a timer such as the one below that will keep it on for 14 hours a day.
At night, it is fine your gecko's tank falls to room temperature, but it is better to purchase a CHE (ceramic heat emitter), or a nighttime bulb, such as an Exo-Terra Moonlight Glo bulb, and put it in a fixture with a dimmer. Here are a few good examples:
The dimmer will help control light and heat, so that your gecko doesn't get too hot or have it's photoperiod messed up. Please note that the infra-red or blue bulbs that you see in pet stores are not invisible to reptiles. They are simply designed to be dim enough for reptiles, although most get much too bright to be used without a dimmer. I have used both for leopard geckos, and I prefer CHEs over nighttime bulbs. Nighttime bulbs have a good heat level, but are too bright for the gecko. Even when they are used with a dimmer, you kind of have to choose between enough heat and too bright, or not enough heat and dim enough. With an CHE, you can simply use a dimmer to get it to the correct heat level, and since they don't give off any light, you won't need to worry about too much. You should keep the CHE on whenever your daytime heat and lights are off.
Lighting: African fat-tail geckos need a proper photoperiod, which is best accomplished using a timer. The lights need to be on at the same time as the heat, so you can plug the lights into the same timer as the heat. At night, lights should be kept to a minimum to allow the gecko a proper photoperiod. You can use plain ol' LED light bulbs from around the house. Here is a good fixture and bulb (The bulb is quite bright; you'll need to use the dimmer switch on the fixture):
Lighting: African fat-tail geckos need a proper photoperiod, which is best accomplished using a timer. The lights need to be on at the same time as the heat, so you can plug the lights into the same timer as the heat. At night, lights should be kept to a minimum to allow the gecko a proper photoperiod. You can use plain ol' LED light bulbs from around the house. Here is a good fixture and bulb (The bulb is quite bright; you'll need to use the dimmer switch on the fixture):
Hideouts: These geckos need a minimum of three hideouts. One on the warm side, one on the cool side, and one in between with moist sphagnum moss or paper towels inside to aid with shedding. This many hides will reduce stress, and not force the gecko to choose between comfort and security. There are many hides to choose from, from the elaborate rock hides to the plain ol' coconut shell hides. Geckos don’t have preferences (as long as they’re safe!), so it's largely up to you to decide what hides would look best. Here are a few good choices (you must make sure that you have the correct size! For most hides, medium-large will work):
Food and nutrition: Fat-tail geckos are insectivores. Most prefer their bugs live, but some will eat freeze-dried or canned. Either way, live has better nutrition that dead, and so they are preferred. You should feed your gecko variety so you pets life is enriched. Here are some good choices for main food for fat-tail geckos:
Black Soldier Fly Larvae (very good, they are quite expensive and small, so it takes quite a few to make a meal for an adult leopard gecko, but they are so high in calcium that you don’t need to dust them in any powdered calcium supplements)
Dubia roaches (a very good choice, although they can be expensive and some people, including myself, develop an allergic reaction to them)
Crickets (also good, they are less expensive than dubia roaches, but aren't as nutritious. I use crickets as the staple food for my oldest leopard gecko, Lenetta)
Mealworms (They work, they are quite inexpensive, but they don't have very much nutrition. That said, I use mealworms as the staple food for my youngest leopard gecko, Lea)
Whatever food you decide to use, be sure to buy a few to begin with to make sure your gecko will eat your specific feeder insect. You don't want to have 500 crickets and a picky gecko who won't eat them!
You have to dust all food (except black soldier fly larvae) with calcium and multivitamin powder. Mix 2 parts powdered calcium supplement with 1 part multivitamin supplement such as the ones below in a bag or small container. At feeding time, dust feeders with the mixture and feed them to the gecko. This is the calcium and multivitamins I use for my leopard geckos:
Black Soldier Fly Larvae (very good, they are quite expensive and small, so it takes quite a few to make a meal for an adult leopard gecko, but they are so high in calcium that you don’t need to dust them in any powdered calcium supplements)
Dubia roaches (a very good choice, although they can be expensive and some people, including myself, develop an allergic reaction to them)
Crickets (also good, they are less expensive than dubia roaches, but aren't as nutritious. I use crickets as the staple food for my oldest leopard gecko, Lenetta)
Mealworms (They work, they are quite inexpensive, but they don't have very much nutrition. That said, I use mealworms as the staple food for my youngest leopard gecko, Lea)
Whatever food you decide to use, be sure to buy a few to begin with to make sure your gecko will eat your specific feeder insect. You don't want to have 500 crickets and a picky gecko who won't eat them!
You have to dust all food (except black soldier fly larvae) with calcium and multivitamin powder. Mix 2 parts powdered calcium supplement with 1 part multivitamin supplement such as the ones below in a bag or small container. At feeding time, dust feeders with the mixture and feed them to the gecko. This is the calcium and multivitamins I use for my leopard geckos:
Handling and temperament: Fat-tail geckos, like all reptiles, are skittish at first. Unlike some reptiles, however, with frequent handling they can become relatively tame. They are a bit more skittish than leopard geckos, however.
Disclaimer: I have not cared for fat-tail geckos, and I have no experience with their species. This caresheet is simply based on several years of research. I always recommend that people check out several sources on the care of their chosen reptile before purchasing, and in this case it is especially important to do so.
Herp Husbandry is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com.
Disclaimer: I have not cared for fat-tail geckos, and I have no experience with their species. This caresheet is simply based on several years of research. I always recommend that people check out several sources on the care of their chosen reptile before purchasing, and in this case it is especially important to do so.
Herp Husbandry is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com.