The Western fence lizard (Sceloporous occidentalis) is a 7-8 inch lizard native to the Western United States. It is a familiar backyard lizard to most people living within their range, as they are very common and tolerant of disturbance. In addition to being very readily available, they are relatively easy to keep and care for properly.
This lizard is sexually dimorphic with females being the smaller and less colorful sex. Adult males have a brown back, with faded crossbands. Their underside is mostly white with black speckles, and four rich blue patches, one on either side of the throat, and one on either side of the belly (hence, they are commonly known as "bluebellies"). Males are especially bright during the breeding season. Adult females and the young of both sexes are gray on the back with bold white and black crossbands and usually lack the blue belly and throat patches, although some females may have small, faded blue patches.
Availability: Unfortunately, fence lizards are not commonly bred in captivity. For most people the only option would be to catch one in the wild and care for it. Be sure to check the laws and regulations of both the state you live in and the state the lizard will be caught in beforehand.
Size: Hatchling fence lizards are generally around 2 inches long. Adult Western fence lizards can get to be 7-8 inches, slightly larger than their Eastern relatives, which average only 6-7 inches.
Life Span: Fence lizards are generally short-lived species, with most not living longer than 5 years. Generally, they live to be 3-4 years old.
Caging: The minimum size tank for a Western fence lizard is a standard 10-gallon, although a 15-gallon tank is better. This species is semi-arboreal, so they need climbing space and floor space. You’ll need at least two hideouts. That way the lizards won't be stressed, and will come out more often. Live and/or plastic plants are essential. Not only are they a great way to add a decorative touch to the tank, but since fence lizards prefer to drink water from the leaves of plants, it provides them with a water source that is comfortable for them.
Substrate: The best substrate for Western fence lizards is Eco-Earth, cage carpet, or paper towels. Sand will work, although there is a risk of impaction. Shredded paper bedding, usually sold as bedding for small animals, can be a good choice, although it can cause eye irritation. If you opt to use this, keep a close eye on the lizard. At the slightest sign that it is irritating them, replace it with paper towels or cage carpet. Do not use calcium sand, ground corncob, or crushed walnut shells, as they are extremely prone to causing impaction. Other unsafe options include pine or cedar shavings, as their oils are toxic to reptiles. The oils are airborne, and are inhaled by the reptiles, and cause extensive lung damage.
Lighting and Temperature: Fence lizards need full spectrum UVB and heat lighting. You can either get these together in one mercury-vapor bulb, or you can get two separate bulbs (keep in mind that the 2-in-1 bulb lasts about a year, whereas a good UVB compact fluorescent lasts only a max of about 6 months). Do not use heat mats or any sort of heat coming from below, as this species recognizes light as heat. If there is no light, they will think that they are too cold, when in reality they are burning themselves.
The ideal temperature for the basking spot during the day is 90-95 degrees Fahrenheit (32-35 degrees Celsius). At night it can fall to room temperature. By using a fixture that has a dimmer, you can easily adjust the amount of heat given.
Food: Fence lizards are insectivores, so live insects make up their entire diet. The best insects are Dubia roaches, mealworms, and crickets. Be sure to feed the insects a nutritious diet for 12 hours before feeding. This process is called "gut-loading", and it is pretty much a literal example of the saying, "You are what you eat." The insects eats a nutritious diet, they are healthier, and then they offer more nutrition for the lizard. Dust all feeder insects with a high-quality calcium and multivitamin powder without vitamin D3. (D3 is also gained from UVB lighting, so giving it to the lizards in powdered form as well would very likely result in hypervitaminosis D, which is toxicity resulting from too much vitamin D). To dust, simply place the insects in a bag or small container that contains a calcium:vitamins ratio of 2:1, shake gently, and place insects in the tank.
You should feed a juvenile fence lizard 2-3 insects every day, and an adult 4-5 insects every other day. To buy crickets, you can go to your local pet store, or online.
Water: As mentioned earlier, fence lizards prefer to drink their water by lapping it up off of plants. For this reason, either live or plastic plants are essential for a fence lizard tank. That said, a water dish is still good to have, as I have occasionally seen my fence lizards lapping up water from their dish, and some lizards like to soak
Handling and Temperament: Fence lizards are small, delicate, and easily stressed, so frequent handling isn't recommended, however many learn to associate their keepers with food, and to accept hand-feedings.
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